My favorite place in Leme is the side of Leme Hill that is facing the beach. While riding a bike all the way from Ipanema, I like to stop here for a rest, watch sunset, listen to live music in an open-air cafe and then ride back. Many times Leme has surprised me with an opportunity to observe local cultural traditions. I have seen people dressed in white performing candomble religion ritual on the beach, capoeira dancers showing their best moves in capoeira circle, samba musicians practicing for the carnival.
Leme beach is a continuation of Copacabana, but less crowded and has less beach kiosks and street vendors. To be honest, I never go to Leme beach to sunbathe or swim during the day, as there are better beaches around. The highlight of the beach is the rock hill at the end of the sand with a passage, facing 90 degrees to the beach and running into the ocean. There is a lot going on in the area during evenings, in fact, the evening is the best time to visit it. It has a calming, relaxed, yet vibrant atmosphere.
The beginning of Copacabana beach between Leme hill and Avenida Princesa Isabel is actually called Leme beach. There are not so many tourists here, the beach is more popular among locals, especially families.
The history of Leme neighborhood began in 1858 when the royal family came to the beach to watch whales and made a picnic there. Before that, only a fort, a small church and a few farms were located in Leme territory. After the royal picnic the place became very popular among other families and it lead to construction of the whole neighborhood.
In 1950s Leme neighborhood was the center of Cariocan nightlife with its glamorous night clubs, visited by many local celebrities.
The area of Leme is relatively safe, although there are less tourists there. It means that you will stand out on the beach more, so keep an eye on your valuables. During the evening Leme has less people, has little street lighting and there are some suspicious characters hanging on the beach promenade on the way to Leme Hill. Never had any problems on the way, but might be best to take a bike there. There is a military base at the foot of the hill, so this area is safer.
Address: Leme, Posto 1
Hood: Leme
From Ipanema, General Osorio:
1. Take metro to Cardeal Arcoverde.
2. Walk to the beach and turn left.
3. Continue on the beach promenade, its all Leme.